The unique value of each Cesare Attolini garment lies in a series of meaningful details.
Each garment is made entirely by hand in the Casalnuovo tailor’s shop, on the outskirts of Naples.
It takes 25 to 30 hours to make a suit.
It takes 25 to 30 hours to make a suit.
130 tailors work every day, each dedicated to performing a single step. Absolute perfectionism.
The cutting techniques are unique. A wealth of exclusive expertise, consolidated over the years by the experience of Vincenzo and Cesare Attolini. Each stage of stitching is followed by a stage of ironing, followed in turn by precise rest stages which vary according to the specific nature of the fabric. Ultra strict control stages, starting with checks upon receipt of the fabrics.
THE STAGES IN CREATING A CESARE ATTOLINI JACKET
What follows is simply the story of some of the major stages in creating an authentic tailored jacket from the Neapolitan school.
What makes each Cesare Attolini jacket unique are those little handcrafted details fine-tuned over the decades by Vincenzo Attolini, needless to say, designer and creator of the first unstructured Neapolitan-style jacket, and perfected by his son Cesare.
Secrets. Real, small, precious secrets. Details. Minute details. Because the difference lies precisely in a series of manual gestures, of real, skilled handling of the fabrics, from the cutting stage to the ironing stages.
We are in the vault of precious fabrics, designed by Massimiliano and Giuseppe Attolini and created exclusively by a few selected English, Scottish and Italian suppliers. At this stage, the fabric needed to produce the jacket is cut off.
After that, with the aid of chalk, the lines of the jacket are drawn out. We then move on to the delicate cutting stage.
The pocket tacking stage is a very significant step. As per Vincenzo’s dictates, perfected over the decades by Cesare, it is essential to be able to give the breast pocket that distinctive “boat” shape, created in 1930 along with the other revolutionary features of the first unstructured Neapolitan-style jacket.
The tacking stage is followed by attaching the breast pocket which, at this point,
shows off its distinctive, harmonious “boat” shape.
Tacking the canvas.
Sewing the pockets.
Tacking the sleeves.
Tacking the shoulders.
Sewing the shoulder pads.
Lining.
In order to complete the under-collar tacking stage, it is necessary to make use of all the manual skill of the expert Cesare Attolini tailors, trained by Maestro Cesare following the dictates learned from his father Vincenzo and perfected over the decades by patient day-to-day work.
Tacking the upper collar is one of the most important and delicate stages, as well as being one of the longest. Also in this stage, the extra fabric remains in the folds and is skilfully handled, creating so-called “turnings”. A technique used by Cesare Attolini in all stages of working, so as to give each garment a perfect fit and an excellent line.
We are therefore at the “plumb” stage for the sleeve. A check to ensure that the right balance has been given to the sleeve. Only once the balance is correct according to the rules set in the Cesare Attolini establishment can we move on to the sewing stage.
This is one of the most difficult and important stages: tacking the armholes. Those aware of the unique nature of a Cesare Attolini jacket can recognise the fine quality of this finish. Once again the product of Vincenzo Attolini’s creativity and perfected by Cesare’s extraordinary expertise. This stage is home to many secrets that make the difference.
Tacking the shoulder roll.
Cutting the buttonholes.
The buttonhole embroidery stage is a very delicate step in which the perfection of the manual gesture cannot contemplate errors.
So now we reach the finishing touches. Slow and meticulous steps. This is when actions that contribute to making each garment unique take place, such as fell stitching the collar and the lining.
Even this step, apparently the simplest, is treated with an abundance of detail.
Attaching the buttons is a job that requires patience and must be completed to perfection.
The final stages, ironing by an actual tailor, are fundamental. These give shape to the jacket, modelling it through skilful handling.
At Cesare Attolini, once again, these steps are performed faithfully following the dictates of Vincenzo and Cesare Attolini.
The testimony that each stage of work has been carried out exclusively by hand is
shown by the sewing of the label.
